Blog January 7, 2011 Part 2

December 30^th 2010 to January 6^th 2011 – another fabulous week at the beach in Watamu. I shall blog about this at a later date so for the time being here is the latest on the safari we took on the return trip to Nairobi…. On January 6^th 2011 we left our beloved Turtle Bay to go on safari. After2 Years in Kenya and having never visited Tsavo East (or West for that matter) we travelled in convoy with Wendy and Mara and within 2 hours of leaving the coast we were at Sala gate on the extreme East of the park .. It had been dirt road all the way – but fairly good condition so we averaged a decent speed. Once inside the park we had to slow down. We saw 21 elephants bathing and frolicking in the river – impala, water and bush buck, zebra, baboons and giraffe (from a distance) - in a tree there were baby monkeys playing – with one swinging and performing acrobatics on another’s tail – frequently falling and hoisting itself back up to be scolded by the other one. It was like something out of a Disney cartoon. Luke was great a spotting game – he said it looks like a computer screen – you delete the background to remove the camouflage and reveal the game. We arrived at the camp – Epiya Chapeyu – AKA - Bigi’s camp, owned by an old Italian family – by lunchtime – 17 tents secreted amongst the palms on the banks of the river. It was HOT. Lunch was served by the river where there was a slight breeze giving relief from the relentless intensity of the midday heat….. In the tents it was borderline suffocating. Later I developed a rapidly intensifying headache (probably caused by dehyration) so I retreated to the tent with water and panadol in the vain hope it would go away … the stifling heat was not helping so I decided to take a cold shower then with wet hair in a towel and wrapped in a kikoy (Kenyan sarong) I lay on the bed ….. now what came next was unbelievable – even to me who has been on many safaris – so picture me lying on the bed in my semi luxury tent – mesh windows are ‘open’ ie flaps down – so the window opposite me is like a giant TV screen to the world outside …. And a HUGE elephant wanders past slowly and silently – perfectly framed in the tent window – a mere 3 or 4 metres from where I lay - WOW ! Now clearly this elephant is a frequent visitor to the camp and did not seem bothered by people or tents or activity BUT knowing what these creatures are capable of I felt very nervous and humbled by this fine beast – a bit too close for comfort. It is interesting that this type of unfenced camp in Zimbabwe would not allow kids under 14 years in, however here in Kenya there seems to be no such condition. It stealthily picked its way around the camp for several minutes until the staff pointed it in another direction away from visitors.

The food on the first night was excellent – not camp food at all – homemade ravioli stuffed with spinach and cheese in a cream sauce – followed by beef snitzel, mash and fresh veg – flambéed bananas and tea or coffee ….

… so to bed … I wake in the dead of night and the generator has gone off – it is PITCH dark … which I despise as it makes me feel claustrophobic … I thrash around feeling like I cannot breath and I catch sight of Steve’s luminous watch hands – phew – relief – I grab his arm and keep it close for the comforting knowledge of that tiny light in the small hours.

We decide to hang around camp for the morning and go out in the afternoon – to end up at another lodge for tea then back to our camp before dark. Wendy, Anna and Mara get up early and go for a drive before breakfast – we hold our breaths when they return waiting to hear how they have gone on. .. …did they see anything worthwhile or was staying in bed the better option…. phew! Bed was a good decision. We spend the morning reading. Blogging, playing cards sitting by the river in the cooling breeze – generally relaxing and drinking in the atmosphere – but not for long … the peace is shattered when a couple of noisy Italian families turn up for lunch and seem to spread out taking over the space in all directions. Still, not long before we head off .. …Not the best time of day to be looking for game as it is hot but we have an interesting route planned …. Not too far into the trip and we find beautiful giraffe almost hidden by the palms in a dry river bed. There were sporadic elephants, herds, lone and small groups. The landscape changes rapidly with the soil type – lunar and barren, green, and parched vegetation seem to be the dominant types. Tea and toilets at Aruba Lodge were very welcome. Sitting amongst the British tourists eagerly awaiting their safaris – red sunburn very evident on their legs and wearing ‘safari’ gear – probably purchased a job-lot in Millets! Some of them appeared to have not paid such great attention to the footwear – there were silver sandals, flowery pumps and other such inappropriate shoes which just did not offset the khaki!! Miaow!! On the way back we saw a beautiful herd of Cape buffalo crossing the track from the river into the bush, numbering 60 or so, including babies trying desperately to keep up with the big ones. Back at camp all is quiet, but just as dark falls there is an invasion of Italians – about 40 including many kids. The noise level goes off the scale – not sure if it sounds nosier because the language is indecipherable? Waiting for the mini pizza pre dinner snacks we can barely hear ourselves speak so we retreat to the veranda of the dining room for some peace. The dinner arrives and it is truly delicious – pasta roses stuffed with Italian tasty mince, followed by beef, roast potatoes and veggies then real Crepe Suzettes with orange sauce. They then bring a birthday cake for Anna with a chorus of Happy Birthday and the appropriate embarrassment from her. We divide the cake and pass it to the Italians – one tries to bring it back, so Dad gestures – rather like an Air Steward coming out of retirement – for the Italian to pass the cake round … bit of a mis-interpretation and the Italian serves EVERYONE himself like a waiter (maybe that’s his job back home!) He brings a few pieces back to us ‘Prego’ and we have a wonderful ‘conversation’ nods and the few Italian words we know interspersed with even fewer English words he knows! Dad starts with Italian footballers language ‘Roberto Mancini’ brings nods of approval … not convinced anyone really knew what the other was on about!(in fact we know that he did not have a clue as we certainly did not expect him to do his waiter bit with the plate of cake!!) Finally he goes back to his table, but soon returns to our table with champagne to toast the birthday girl – Anna is now recoiling with all the attention!! Maybe we can forgive the noise level ….Long live entente cordiale?.... well at least until 05.30AM when the peace is shattered and destroyed once again as they leave the camp – I SO nearly shouted out “Roberto Mancini – we’re trying to sleep in here!!” Still the upshot of their early departure was a PEACEFUL and leisurely breakfast by the river – car packed ready to leave, and waiting for the food – a Brown spotted hyena runs through the camp – Hyena Hyena !! Ssssh ‘ You’ll frighten it off!!’ We scramble for cameras but I think it is more disturbed by us than we are by it!! A few minutes later … a hippo is spotted hauling itself out of the river onto the opposite bank and stumbles around in the vegetation almost looking like it is blinded by the light of day. ‘Maybe there was a noisy tourist that had disturbed it from its wallowing slumbers??!!

.. so it’s back to Nairobi .. until the next time …. From sunny Kenya x